Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
